Many period movies strive for historical accuracy, and their attention to detail is often what makes them so spectacular. But there are other period movies that choose to utilize costuming as a way to emphasize theme, characterization, and aesthetics, and the garments will often be more exaggerated or extravagant depending on the story.
This most often occurs with period movies that have a slightly fantastical aspect to their narrative, such as in the fantasy, musical, or horror genre, where supernatural or surreal situations might influence the costuming in such a way that enhances the powerful storylines, making them even more arresting or provocative.
Crimson Peak (2015) - Available On Netflix
Though the films of Guillermo Del Toro are often known for their creature designs, there's no denying that this Victorian ghost story makes an equal visual statement thanks to the gorgeous costumes by Kate Hawley. While the garments adhere mostly to the silhouettes of the late 19th century, the colors, and even exaggerated shapes, evoke the themes and personalities of the characters wearing them.
Naive Edith, who comes to live at Crimson Peak Manor, is often dressed in bursting shades of yellow and gold, while the gothic architectural elements of the imposing house can be seen incorporated into her husband's suits and her sister-in-law's dresses, with generic lace eschewed in favor of clothing details that reflect the symbolism of their shared tragic history.
The Three Musketeers (2011) - Available On Hulu
There have been dozens of adaptations of Alexandre Dumas's famous 18th-century adventure novel, but none quite as dazzling as the 2011 version of The Three Musketeers. By no means does the film have historically accurate costumes, but what it lacks in that sort of period detail it more than makes up for with imaginative innovation.
The traditional story of the three musketeers and their newest recruit taking on the evil Cardinal gets an update, with an emphasis on everything sexier and more action-oriented, except that this time there are airships! That's right, the musketeers go steampunk in this delightful romp that is a feast for the eyes.
Vanity Fair (2004) - Available On Prime
William Makepeace Thackery's "Vanity Fair" may make for a long-winded tome but with the right costumes, it makes for a very engaging period movie. As Becky Sharp climbs the social ladder of London during the Napoleonic Wars, her many outfits change to reflect her status, as do the ensembles of the lovers that she takes along the way.
Costume designer Beatrix Aruna Pasztor teamed up with Indian director Mira Nair to make bold looks for the movie, incorporating everything from rockstar haircuts and thigh-high leather boots for the men, to Eastern elements for the women. In an interview for Entertainment Weekly, Pasztor explained how many outfits were deconstructed and reinterpreted, citing one red duchesse satin ball gown being inspired by contemporary couturier Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Sleepy Hollow (1999) - Available On Prime
Tim Burton's gothic adventure Sleepy Hollow, loosely based on Washington Irving's classic ghost story about Ichabod Crane taking on the Headless Horseman, is an example of how beautiful his distinct visual aesthetic can be when applied to a period movie. Commonly regarded as Burton's homage to Hammer Studios horror movies from the '60 and '70s, so often known for their decadent sets and costumes, it stands on its own as a unique contribution to the genre.
His longtime collaborator Colleen Atwood designed the costumes, often foregoing historical accuracy in favor of whimsical styles and details that convey a fairytale quality. Due to the dark wash of the movie, she often trimmed Ichabod's black garments with silver piping, so they would catch the light and ensure his character didn't get lost in the dim backgrounds.
The Phantom Of The Opera (2004) - Available On HBOMax
While there have been many film adaptations of Gaston Leroux's novella Le Fantôme de l'Opéra, Andrew Lloyd Webber's Broadway musical from the '80s finally got the cinematic treatment thanks to Joel Schumacher, a designer turned director whose films often have a distinctive aesthetic all their own.
Schumacher tapped Alexandra Byrne to bring Webber's rock opera to life, and as a result, the normally heavily scarred Phantom prowling the Paris Opera House got a lot sexier, as did Christine Daae, the innocent ingenue with whom he's obsessed. While the movie may have a few false notes, the costumes are extravagant enough to capture Webber's particular sense of expression.
Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber Of Fleet Street (2007) - Available On Tubi
Tim Burton takes on the Georgian era in Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street, one of Broadway's most famous musicals, given a gothic lacquer by the quirky filmmaker that highlights its sanguinary reputation. The dark palette of the costumes, an amalgamation of Georgian staples with Victorian details, set off the buckets of blood perfectly in this period slasher turned musical.
Colleen Atwood once again uses her design talents to deliver countless looks that not only represent the period well and evoke Burton's style, they are also iconic visual staples of the horror genre.
Moulin Rouge (2001) - Available On Prime
Moulin Rouge, considered one of Baz Luhrmann's best films, follows a penniless writer who falls in love with a beautiful chanteuse during the turn of the 20th century, providing a heady cavalcade of enthralling visuals and costumes --along with the modern rock soundtrack-- that aid in making it seem fresh and contemporary.
The movie is a tug-of-war between historical detail and fictional superfluousness, mirroring the conflict in Satine as she swears off love but nevertheless finds herself nevertheless drawn to Christian. As the National Film and Sound Archive of Australia notes, the famous red dress she wears in the Elephant Medley Scene, costume designers Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie took inspiration from some of the most beautiful women from Hollywood's Golden Age; Marilyn Monroe, Greta Garbo, and Marlene Dietrich.
Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse Of The Black Pearl (2003) - Available On Disney+
Pirates of the Caribbean's best outfits.
The search for the fearsome Black Pearl by Captain Jack Sparrow and his friends could scarcely have been so compelling if its costumes looked like they'd been taken off the rack of a party store. Penny Rose was responsible for its outfits making the high-seas so appealing, and because of her clever work, fans would never assume Jack's hat was made out of rubber!
My Fair Lady (1964) - Available On Netflix
The story of the stuffy Professor Higgins turning the impoverished Eliza Doolittle into a glittering member of the British aristocracy has been worked into numerous plots of movies and television series but in its classic Hollywood form, My Fair Lady shines the most. During the early 20th century when the movie takes place, clothing and manner of speech were two of the biggest class distinctions of English society, and both needed to be above reproach.
Costume designer Cecil Beaton knew that to tell the rags-to-riches story effectively, she needed to create jaw-dropping costumes for Audrey Hepburn to wear once she transforms from a guttersnipe living on the streets of London into an elegant lady. Part of the appeal of the costumes over other movies released at the same time (such as Hello Dolly!) is that while extravagant, they never feel like eye-sores, and in fact, appear more like couture creations.
The Phantom Thread (2017) - Available On Hulu
It stands to reason that a movie about famous dressmaker Reynolds Woodcock would have phenomenal costumes, and The Phantom Thread doesn't disappoint in that regard. As the movie moves from the 1950s in London, where Woodcock dresses movie stars and royalty, to later decades when his style of couture goes out of fashion in favor of ready-to-wear, the costumes can never be faulted for authenticity.
The most historically accurate of any of the movies on this list, it never lacked for style, choosing to push the boundaries of what viewers might expect, and proving that sometimes the truth of the garment is more beautiful and impressive than fiction.
